The following is a complete list of the clays, slips, underglazes and glazes I use in my studio. As with everything else in ceramics, you have to test things in your own studio to see if they work with your materials. These are a mixture of things I have created, borrowed, or learned from previous experience with peers and educators. 

Clay ready to be thrown.

Clay ready to be thrown.

Clay

The clay body I created in graduate school fires beautifully to Cone 6 and is a deep, dark brownie color. I currently use Highwater's Earthen red clay, and it is very close in color to what I mix on my own. At this time boxed clay is the best option for me. I fire the clay to a hot Cone 5 in my kiln, if you get this clay too hot it will bloat in the kiln. 

Sara's Cone 6 Clay Body

OM4        10%

RedArt     45%

Fireclay    45%

Bentonite   2%

Grog to taste (I usually only add a scoop or two to the first batch then not at all.)

Slipped teabowls waiting to be decorated.

Slipped teabowls waiting to be decorated.

Slip

I've been using this all-purpose slip recipe for years. It's stable and fits any clay body I have ever put it on. It looks beautiful low fired and midrange on my pots, and it is also what I used on a high-fire clay body to woodfire in graduate school. It accepts colorants beautifully, and, when thinned-out, pours lovely as a liner or for exterior coverage. I use a little epsom salt if I get it too thin.  

When I color my slip I usually mix two full buckets of it at a time. For our studio and the use, that’s normally 25,000 grams. We leave one 5 gallon bucket thicker, like the consistency of yogurt, and the other we thin down more like the consistency of whole milk. The thinner one is then divided up into pint sized yogurt containers, and colorant is added to them. For a full size yogurt container I add between 2 and 3 tablespoons of mason stains.

If for whatever reason I have it a little too thin I will add a few pinches of epson salt and mix it up until I feel like I have it exactly the color I want.

All Purpose White Slip  Cone 04-10

OM4             25%

Frit 3124        18%

EPK               25%

Silica             20%

Zircopax          5%

Pots waiting to have the exterior dipped in glaze.

Pots waiting to have the exterior dipped in glaze.

Glaze

I use the same two glazes every firing and add a thinned out lithium wash in certain areas to add movement to the glaze. These glaze surfaces each change dramatically with a slow cooling cycle programmed into the kiln's firing schedule. I don't slow cool now, but have in the past and they both get a much more matte surface. 

EM Satin Glaze (from Eric Mirabito via Chandra      DeBuse)- Cone 6

Silica        21%

Neph Sy    20%

Whiting     20%

EPK          20%

Frit 3124   20%

Bentonite    2%

Add:  4-6% Mason Stain for color

lithium wash

(lithium carbonate 9.5g + Bentonite 0.5 g + 2TBSP water) to select areas to encourage running. Use sparingly on upper 1/3 of pot.  Not the insides!

Alberta yellow ^6 (warm honey yellow color!)
Gerstley borate 17.65%
Nepheline syenite 21.86%
Alberta slip. 35.10%
Flint/Silica 23.46%
Soda ash. 1.96%

When I was in graduate school we used this recipe in cone 10 reduction and in the wood kiln and it’s beautiful! The higher it was fired the more light honey it became.